merchandise

Fall 2012 Trends

Last night was the first time I slept with a blanket, Fall is finally here! And with the new season, we pack away our bathing suits and start to pull out our Fall clothes. There is nothing more delicious than September issues, quilted coats, velvety slacks and oxford shoes. Along with the new trends, there are also colors that come out for the new season.

When looking into your Fall wardrobe, focus on the colors– Cranberry, Mustard, Jade, Plum, Gold, and Forest Green.

Now let’s get to the trends…

GOLD: The shimmery color can be used for the majority of the outfit or just as accent.

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Giambattista Valli

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Micheal Kors

LAMINATED: Wax or plastic finish

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Jil Sander

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Fendi

“FENCED:” Detailed latticework usually shown as pattern, print or embroidery

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Rodarte

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Balmain

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Rue Du Mail

MILITARY: This trend is back because it’s obviously a classic. It can be worn as a full suit or just pair a military jacket with a pair of jeans.

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Burberry

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Altuzarra

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Max Mara

RENAISSANCE: Romantic textures and embroidery, just think WWSW? (What would Shakespeare Wear?)

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Giles

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Dolce & Gabbana

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Balmain

VELVET: This soft fabric is seen throughout designers collections

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Kenzo

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Emporio Armani

*All photos provided by Elle.com

Globalization of the Fashion Industry

Globalization At It’s Best

Forget sex… let’s talk about business baby, just you and me. Globalization has forever changed the fashion industry. It has changed where things are made, sold and how different companies compete with each other. 

Imports and exports are very important aspects that every nation needs to take into consideration. Generally speaking, every nation would like to have equal parts of imports coming in and exports going out. 

For those of you who have no clue what I’m talking about… Exports are products or services that one country sells and ships to another. Imports are merchandise brought in from another country for resale or other purposes. 

All Industry Segments Are Affected by Globalization

Textile Producers: They usually buy their products from other countries for a lower, more affordable price. Many textile producers import yarns needed to produce the fabric. 

Apparel Firms: They have their product made in different countries where there is more labor available for a lower price. Different companies like Liz Claiborne and Nike have their garments make in dozens of countries. 

Retailers: They are also very active global players. Retailers have been part of the global economy for a very long time. They have traveled to other countries to buy lines for their stores. But more recently, they have gone a step farther. They have started to include private-label lines, taking on many roles that are usually taken care of by the manufacturer. 

Consumers: A huge link in the global fashion economy. 60 to 70 percent of apparel sold in America is made in different countries, the need for imports are growing at a rapid pace. In the past, the global brands were usually only connected with luxury labels, like Chanel and Rolex. But as time and technology increases, consumers all over the world tend to want the same things, forcing the fact that export and imports will increase in the global economy. There are three major reasons it’s become easier to share and receive products from different countries: 1) The ability to use credit cards to pay for any product anywhere; 2) Internet allows apparel firms and retailers to sell to anyone in any location; 3) Worldwide delivery systems like Federal Express

Who Imports and Why

There are three major categories of fashion merchandising imported into the United States: 1) Fabric and yarn; 2) ready-to-wear merchandise that is totally designed and produced by foreign manufacturers and is generally purchased by retail buyers for resale; 3) merchandise that is contracted out to oversea factories for all or part of the production process and then is returned to the United States. 

The reasons for the high growth rate of imports can be very different. Some of them include: Lower prices– U.S. labor costs are so much more expensive than the third world countries that are willing to work for any wage. Availability of hand labor– Many other countries have more hand labor capabilities than America has. Hand labor increases in price in more developed countries. Product voids in the United States– Category of merchandise that the United States doesn’t have a good resource of or doesn’t make well, like cashmere from Scotland and leather from Spain. Other reasons include Exclusive rights, fashion cachet of Europe, etc.

Fashion Show Merchandise Selection

Merchandise is the whole point to the fashion show. The merchandise must have a strong stage presence, meant to sell the clothing. The selection of merchandise must make a clear fashion statement to the audience. It should match the theme of the show and needs of the audience. The merchandise must be appropriate to the age, sex, income, life style of audience and priced according to what they will spend on fashion.

Retail Merchandise Selection:

When borrowing merchandise from a store, it is important to project a professional image. Approach merchants with as much information as possible: show theme, categories, date, time, number of desired outfits, publicity. All retailers should be aware of other participating merchants and the same policies should be enforced equally.

Merchandise Categories:

The merchandise is coordinated into specific categories to make related statements. Groupings are formed after reviewing merchandise available from different retailers. There should be a flow between the categories and a pleasing order within the categories.

Timing:

Ten days to two weeks prior to the show, visit local retailers to review available merchandise. Merchandise is not reserved at this time. The show date needs to be close enough where the merchandise can be purchased after the show.

Merchandise Pull:

It is the physical removal of the merchandise from the store. Some retailers will set aside a specific area for fittings, others may ask you to work around customers in the dressing rooms.

Merchandise Fittings:

Fitting supplies can include the following: fitting sheets, pens, staplers, pencils. Pre-fitting organization requires you to have models sizes and have the merchandise ready.  Merchandise fittings involves matching the models with appropriate merchandise. It is important to organize fitting sessions to avoid wasted time of models, merchants and coordinators. Professional models are paid for fitting time. Plan fittings to be ten days to two weeks before the show.

Organize Line Up:

It is up to the Merchandise Coordinator to organize the model/merchandise line up. The line up is the organized listing of the order models will appear in the show. Do not allow personal preferences of models to interfere with merchandise order. The final line up is used for many different purposes during the show. Dressing areas are organized, placing models in specific areas to avoid confusion. Dressers, backstage manager and personal have an order to follow.

Fitting Sheets:

A sheet should be made for each outfit as the line up is finalized. It includes the sizing information, order number in the line up, detailed description of outfit. It must include a list of accessories, shoes and hosiery. There must be directions on how to wear the specific items.

Merchandise Loan Record:

It is the record of every item borrowed from a designer or retailer. There must be three copies: store/designer, persona responsible for return of items, instructor/show coordinator. The Loan Record includes many details like: description of garment, manufacturer, color, date of loan, authorization, who is responsible for returns, where it is store once it’s removed from store, size, price, department and store.

Fashion Show Planning and Committees

I was so tired this morning, just running on coffee and Poptarts… but I woke right up when I got to my Fashion Show class. My teacher told us that she was going to lecture and then we would brainstorm a theme for the fashion show we are going to produce. I am fascinated by the industry of fashion show production. Here are some major points we talked about…

Fashion Show Planning and Committees:

The fashion event requires advance planning and greatly detailed organization. Planning involves all the preliminary preparations of the show. The planning must be proper for the type of show and the abilities of the group producing the show. It is better to do an excellent job on a small show and not a mediocre job on a large show. Communication is very important and must be well defined and functional. The more organized you are, the more confident you will be when the show goes up.

The first step is planning a fashion show catering to a certain audience. The merchandise must match the audiences interests. There are two types of audiences. Guaranteed Audience is an audience that is established before the show is organized. A Created Audience is one that is established after the show is planned. It is the result of publicity and advertising. A retailer can use a fashion show to attract an audience. A production or runway show might require a large audience. Consider the age of the audience when planning the show. Younger audiences need to be constantly entertained. It is usually necessary to have louder, more contemporary music with a faster beat.

Leadership is very important. One of the first steps in planning a show is planning who is going to be the planning leaders.

Fashion Show Coordinator carries the responsibilities of producing the show, involved in everything. They must be able to communicate with everyone involved, both verbally and in writing. Must keep a notebook of every detail of the show: tasks to be completed, follow up dates, and future needs of the show. They must be able to forsee problems and be flexible to work around difficulties when they arise. Many people are involved in the show and it’s important for the show coordinator to know everything that the others are doing.

Model Coordinator is responsible for selecting and training models. They coordinate the model’s activities. Organizes and supervises modeling rehearsals. The work closely with: merchandising team, modeling coach, beauty technicians, hair and makeup. They are in charge of getting models full names, mailing addresses, e-mail and sizing information.

Staging Coordinator oversees everything that involves the stage and runway. Supervises people providing services behind the scenes: Prop managers, lighting technicians, stage hands, music.

Promotion Coordinator is accountable for the creation and distribution of promotional materials.

Merchandise Coordinator selects appropriate merchandise for the show with other merchandise committee members. They supervise and schedule fittings with models. The Merchandise Coordinator works out the model line up. They must organize the dressers and the starters. They are also in charge of dressing room supervision.

For the fashion show my class is going to produce, I would like to be on the merchandising team. I have already recruited ten models, so maybe I should be on the modeling team as well. I can’t wait!

Brief Background of Fashion Shows

Today in my Fashion Show class, we started off by having a brief overview of the history of fashion shows. Here are some major points that we talked about:

  1. Fashion Dolls : original versions of mannequins, miniature scale of outfits where women could order the outfit in their size. 
  2. Charles Fredrick Worth : “Father of Couture.” Wife modeled his clothes for clients. Developed advertisement and store window displays to attract public. 
  3. Paul Poiret : Opened his first couture house in 1904. Wife, Denise Poiret, and her friends modeled his clothes when walking around town. 
  4. Christian Dior : “The New Look.” Post WW2, Dior encouraged his models to be energetic and youthful at fashion shows.
  5. Fashion Shows are a type of production that involves presenting merchandise on live models to potential customers.
  6. Fashion shows are considered a silent “salesperson” because the customer can see how the designer envisions the total look of the merchandise.
  7. There are different types of fashion shows: Production, Formal, Informal, Video.
  8. Production Fashion Show : Theatrical, entertaining and expensive. Generate excitement for a certain look.
  9. Formal Fashion Show : Conventional fashion representation. Usually 30-45 minutes long. Models walk down runway in a substantial order. The main characteristic is the use of the runway. During Market Week, continual fashions shows educate buyers on new merchandise/trends. Involves many elements like theme, stage, lighting, models, music and commentary. 
  10. Informal Fashion Show : Informal presentation of garments and accessories. Can require little preparation. No theatrical elements like theme or music. May use props. Trunk shows feature garments from the manufacturer or designer in a retail environment. 
  11. Video Production : Used for both wholesale and retail. Manufacturers record runway shows and use them in national ad campaigns. Can watch shows live via the internet. Unknown designers got fame from various shows like Project Runway.

Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is a production show. It is very theatrical and entertaining.

Models walk consecutively down the runway in a traditional show.

Will That Be Cash or Credit?

Where are customers buying their clothes?

I recently just had a field trip to Macy’s with my Fashion Careers class. It was actually kind of funny to go there for a field trip… because I used to work at that particular Macy’s. So I had a little reunion with my old bosses and we had a tour of my old digs.

In my Fashion Careers class, we have been talking about the customer/consumer. Wholesalers need to consider how much the customer would be willing to spend, and how fashionable that one customer may be. Next thing to consider is to find out where the customer has bought and will buy this merchandise.

Let’s briefly go over the dominant retail categories that carry fashion merchandise.

  1. Department Stores
  2. Discount Stores
  3. Specialty Chain
  4. Designer-owned specialty store
  5. Small specialty stores and boutiques
  6. Off-price stores
  7. Warehouse stores
  8. Factory outlets
  9. Catalogs
  10. Hybrid stores
  11. Telemarketers
  12. Electronic retailers

Let’s go over a few of these retail categories:

Department Store: Department stores are large emporiums that carry hard and soft goods. Hard goods can include home furnishings; Soft goods can include apparel and accessories. Brand name and designer name merchandise is often available to the customers. Department stores usually have a broader range of prices, usually higher signifying better quality. Customer service is also very important to department stores. Personally, a couple of my favorite department stores are Macy’s and Bloomingdales.

Designer-Owned Specialty Stores: Designer-owned specialty stores carry only the labels of that one designer. They are owned, operated and promoted by that design house. A few prominent examples would be Versace, Chanel and Betsey Johnson.

Off-Price Stores: The general idea is that Off-price stores buy unwanted merchandise, due to various reasons, from wholesalers. Some popular Off-price stores are TJ Maxx, Marshall’s and Ross.

I will forever have a deep passionate love for shopping. Stores will not be seeing less of me any time soon. That’s great if you have a favorite store or brand, but I recommend you mix it up. Try shopping at a place you would usually never step place in. For example, I would prefer buying shoes at Neiman Marcus… but I have to admit, I have found some pretty fabulous shoes at Payless.